Sunday, January 27, 2013

Blush Basics


A Crucial Dose of Color

When it comes to your makeup, blush is like salt: The right amount provides an essential accent, too much is overwhelming. But worrying about the appropriate application shouldn’t deter you from playing with this crucial dose of color. “Blush really lifts the face and balances any other makeup,” says celebrity makeup artist Liz Pugh, of Rimmel London.

Selecting Your Shade

“When it comes to blush, the most common mistake women make involves their color selection,” says Sephora Pro Beauty Team makeup artist Jeffrey English. He says women often choose a tone that's too neutral, which makes skin appear dull.
If you’re having trouble picking a shade that's right for your skin, pay attention to the color of your cheeks after you exercise — that’s the color you want your blush to be, says Sadah Saltzman, hair and makeup designer at Salon AKS in New York City.

Finding the Right Formula

Professional makeup artists award cream blushes high honors for their ability to blend into skin and look sheer, for the most natural effect.
Powder blush does have its place, though: Celebrity makeup artist Sonia Kashuk, founder of the Sonia Kashuk beauty brand, dusts a thin layer of powder blush over cream formulations to make the color last longer. And beginners might do best to stick to powders because they’re streak free, softer, and easier to blend, says Suzette Lamos, boutique sales manager at the Guerlain Boutique & Spa at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City.

Getting the Best Tools

If you’ve invested in a powder blush compact, you’ll need a big, fluffy powder brush, says Carmindy, makeup host on What Not to Wear.  You want a large, soft brush to avoid a striped, streaky effect, she says. Try Mary Kay's Cheek Brush ($10 or $55 for the brush set).
If you use a cream formula, often the best application tools are your fingers. Your body heat will help blend the pigment, and you’ll be able to place the blush precisely where you want it.

Faking a Natural Flush

“The trick when applying blush is to smile and dust it on the apples of the cheeks,” says Stapleton. For the most natural effect, he says, you should “sweep the color back toward the hairline to blend it out.”
“If the blush is placed too high on the cheekbone, the look becomes dated,” English says, “and if it’s placed too low, it can pull your features downward. Blush should be applied two fingers' width away from your nose to create a fresh, flushed look.”
When in doubt, all the experts say that blending is the answer. You want to avoid stripes or any other obvious edges to the pigment. And if you find that you’ve applied too much blush, Carmindy recommends dipping a makeup sponge in foundation and buffing the color down to a more natural hue.

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